2nd assignment of 2009 #1
Well, I'm in Paris (at the time of writing this update)
Actually Paris the airport, not the city...
My USAir flight was cancelled due to very high winds along the eastern seaboard...
They arranged to have me go with Air France to CDG and then to Roma
I'm writing this note just moments after I've conclded there's no wifi here, none free, or easy let's say... I don't want to sign a contract just to get my first note out to you all... I'd probably have to become a member at two different unions and make pension contributions...
Takeoff in a 747-400 in high winds was quite an experience... lots of shear...
I'm probably about 10 minutes from my first espresso in a proper european country.
I'll have quite some time to sample the airport's offerings as it's currently 07:00 hrs, and my flight to roma departs closer to noon...
I really am a very lucky guy... the alarm that I so painstakingly set to get me up on time to pack and do last-minute errands was only that; set. Not turned on. I can sleep until well past 10:00hrs with no alarm sounding... By some little miracle I awoke without the alarm and thankfully realized it was at a time which would not put my flights at risk... The result was less than 2 hours to pack and get it all together...
Well, in the end, together it all got, no thanks to Union Taxi who, twice, went to 276 Queen instead of 265 Queen... the driver was certain that the school accross the street was also 265, when he saw the numbers our our house amazed to learn that a street could have 2 identical numerical address, he couldn't figure out how the postman would decide who gets what...
I had to show the driver the address on the building he had driven to twice, to point out the numbers were different, he went through a quaint cognitive dissonance routine consisting of a rather odd display of facial distortions and quirky gasps with some crazy hand gestures. The numbers on the school's portico are about 1 meter high, they read: 276.
The postman was in fact safe from the imagined dilema my driver had projected on to him...
I have, as usual, the scantest of directions to follow to get me the ~165 kilometers or so out of roma to viterbo... can't wait to hit the road after the next short flight...
la bella macchina sounds like it's warmed up and in the zone, time for coffee...
OK...
No longer in Paris now...
Sometime later, probably only a day, though it's hard to be sure... I travelled 28 hours straight to get to Italy, so I'm a little bit lost for temporal awareness...
I've survived CDG and the hour and a half (motionless) delay on the taxiway due to a runway inspection (so it wasn't a short flight after all) and I'm part way through Friday at work on the Italian army base in Viterbo... I've seen blossoming lilac trees and lots of gorgeous countryside on the drive up... having a nice time so far...
Software installation so far is going well...
Looks like we're off to a good start for Monday...
Travel pics soon to be updated with some European food shots and other...
I've got a VW Passat and it's a big car for Italy!!
I may try driving it into Roma to (get it banged up a bit) do a yoga at Lino Miele's studio over the weekend. And he's got a special workshop over a weekend, I may participate if the $$ (or euros) are there.
Be well!
roy
2nd assignment of 2009 #2
Hey gang, here's some info on Viterbo:
http://www.italytraveller.com/en/r/lazio/s/viterbo
Yeah there's thermal-mineralized (sulfer??) baths here... :-) !!!
Not sure I'll be able to soak though, I hear they don't sulfer fools easily here in Viterbo (for you Colin... ok and Bernard too).
And the travel set has been updated...
Maybe off to Rome tomorrow (Sunday)...
Hope you're all well,
roy
2nd assignment of 2009 #3
Warning, this one is long... yeah, longer than usual...
Yep, the Travel set has been updated (including some food shots)...
This is my second Saturday in Italy... and apparently I am in hell...
By this I mean that Danté claimed (I haven't read Danté btw) in his Devine Comedy, La Divina Commedia, (Hell Book) that the baths and caves of Viterbo, are in fact the physical entrances to hell... why did my travel agent omit to inform me of this? Did she suspect I would refuse my assignment? Did she think I must go to Roma and sample proper southern-Italian food??
First off, the thermal baths in this area are indeed sulfur, they turn your silver jewelry into an ugly hellish mess, they make your skin feel beyond wonderful... and they do have a god-awful stink. Danté was on to something... And even though I am somewhat of a fool, I had no trouble gaining entrance to the sulfur baths...
The natural grotto (caves) are incredible... really. Grotto therapy is unlike sauna or steam bath, in that it's not an enter/exit repeat kind of experience... in once, then exit to be wrapped up by an attendant in soft cocoon where you rest on a comfortable bed for about 30 minutes. The wrap actually retains heat, so it's like high-temperature baking in the grotto for about 10 minutes (43 degrees C yesterday), followed by a slow-wrapped-baking in the relaxation room for another half an hour!
My heart and cardiovascular system are accustomed to sauna and steam bath... and to a rather quick temperature plunge in the 13 degrees C arctic dunk-pool. There is no such feature as a 13 degree dunk-pool in these underground ancient caves, (go figure)... your body stays heated up, only to return to a normal temperature quite slowly... like after 40 minutes of high-humidity, and heat...
Thankfully, I opted for a third service upon entering the Center... the Vascular Treatment...
This consisted of a 20 minute walk in 2 waist-deep narrow pools each about 20 meters long. One warm, one cold (24 degrees C). You walk 20 meters in the warm pool, exit, do a 180, and descend into the 20 meter cold pool running parallel alongside the warm one. You greet other bathers with a smile, as you pass them walking in the opposite direction, and in opposite temperature... quite an exercise in mental polarities (indeed a yogic activity by nature as well)... I was lowering my body to chest level while traversing the cold pool.
So it's Saturday, I'm well rested. Got to bed before 21:00 Friday and slept in to 09:00 this am. Had a very nice breakfast and am trying to sort out my day. Maybe long drive to the ocean, or maybe another walk to old walled Viterbo. Last week's walk was on Sunday, and practically everything was closed, so it was quite and desolate. If I go today it'll be much livelier...
Check out these links:
General
Photos
Grotto
Pools
Piscina
My silver ring after soaking...
The Italians have their televisions read the newspaper to them.
Each morning as I watch the TV news program displayed on the large plasma screen TV in the breakfast room, there's either a gorgeous Italian woman, or an older grumpy/scruffy Italian man operating a large table-top-touchscreen display computer. The TV angle is typically from directly above the news anchor person as they operate the touch screen. Page-by-page they bring copies of the various newspapers front pages into view, and proceed to highlight in yellow computerized finger-activated highlighter that page's Headlines, and then highlight some of the key text in the article below... mixed media or what?? It's fun to watch, though it strikes me as a bit pablum-ish to have a publication as evolved as a newspaper read to me... not sure if I go for it back home... Imagine watching the TV news back home and having the morning's news from The Gazette, or La Prèsse banged into your head... umm... no-thanks...
I have been lent a 3000$ mountain-bike by Cpt. Simoné... we may ride the mountains of Viterbo!!!
So the question now becomes; who is Lino Miele?
Well he's an interesting guy, first-off. He's based in Roma, and he's an Ashtanga Yoga teacher. Lino's teacher is a man I affectionately call The Old Man. The Old Man is also my teacher's teacher. The Old Man is very close to about 20 of his older and more dedicated students, Lino and my teacher are included in this group. The Old Man is considered to be Ashtanga yoga's Father. I am very fortunate that every assignment my career has sent me on, each one has landed me in the lap of interesting and qualified Ashtanga teachers. I did manage to miss Andrew Eppler in Oklahoma recently, though that's another story...
And also another story is about how I've come to befriend an Ashtanga teacher who is based in Chicago. Her name is Lisa, and I came to learn of her when I was researching Ashtanga yoga in Tokyo back in 2007. Lisa writes (blogs) about her teaching, and traveling adventures. In 2007 she was teaching for a 3 month stint in Tokyo, and our paths almost crossed at that point. From what I've gathered about her, she is a concerned, involved, generous person. I can only imagine how much she gives of herself to her students. I have never had the opportunity to meet her in person, only via web-based contact... though I do know she is shy and would be slightly uncomfortable having this update involve her so, I'll keep it to a minimum...
Lisa is strongly urging me to go to Lino's weekend's workshop next weekend in Roma...
Lisa's teacher is Lino Miele...
I met Lino on my first visit to Helsinki. Over the years, he assisted some very fine people there in setting up an excellent Ashtanga school. Lino often goes to Helsinki to do workshops, and he even persuaded The Old Man to visit Helsinki on one of the famous world tours. So in 2006 (I think) I met Lino on one of his workshop visits to Helsinki. In fact he was offering a week-long workshop, with the only weekend activity being a small lecture, with Question and Answer and a film screening, followed by a pot-luck party. The lecture with film screening was the only event my schedule permitted me to attend. I did however manage to do several lead classes with Hanne Sydänmaa who helped me greatly with the arm/hand position of Halasana... yeah another story...
The Finns by the way, are quiet and publicly reserved people in general. They keep to themselves, they don't gesticulate wildly (or at all) with the arms and hands when they speak, they don't raise their voices they don't shout in public (unless they are drunk, and they are in fact known to get quite drunk sort of regularly, though they typically remain on the quite side). If you're interested you can get a good idea of drunken Finnish city life in the wonderful movie "A Night On Earth".
I heard a translation of a Finnish expression commenting on Finnish culture...
When a Finn speaks to you and looks at their own shoes, they are typical of Finnish culture and are introverted, when a Finn speaks to you and looks at your shoes, they are an exception to the rest, and are definitely extroverted... or something along those lines... anyhow off-topic again...
Lino, before he started his small lecture, was stressing that the Finns in attendance should be direct with their questions, that they should be comfortable to speak up, and bring their personality into their questions... He broke the ice by humorously suggesting that before adjourning to watch the movie, that someone must ask him about his recipe for "dabesta pasta-sauce-a ina-da world" he said this with both his hands extended in an typical Southern-Italian gesture, conveying both how good his recipe is and how much he as an individual, loves food... (which suggests to me why Lisa connects to him so strongly, Lisa is a foodie)
As an an side... ipod is playing The Black Crows, Time Will Tell, where the refrain is "You think you're in heaven, but you're living in hell..." Those of you know me well, know that I suspect the software engineers at apple took special attention to engineer an unusually high level of synchronicity into the Shuffle mode of the ipod... Did they even go to the extents to read Danté? Shuffle is much more rewarding than the Genius Playlist product... but that yet again is another story...
Back to Lino...
He did a nice presentation and passed on very good information about Ashtanga method (which very often gets misrepresented, even by it's own proponents). It was clear to me that he is a very special person and has a high level of caring for his students and the yoga system he is devoted to... After a couple of quiet and reserved questions from 1 or 2 from the Finnish students in attendance, I piped up to ask a spirited, and direct question to sort of get things animated and rolling... It was along the lines of how Lino feels inside while he is doing his practice... a question which is away from the typical questions about alignment and counting and how to perfect the postures or the method...
He grew a very big smile and used his answers as a launching pad to talk about yoga in a very different context... the students of course warmed up to the change in the room and their questions became natural and flowing and animated, and Lino was in his element... and the Q&A indeed went on longer than anyone had anticipated...
After some time one could see Lino making efforts to guide the group's attention toward ending the Q&A and to watching the film, it was, after all getting late... after the 3rd or 4th round of "I'll take a-one-a more-a last questee-own-eh..." I put up my hand... again...
He looked at me with slight concern, as he suspected it might get long (yes a common theme in my life)... I assured him via gestures it would be a short one... He agreed...
"Is basil a necessary ingredient in a pasta-sauce?"
I asked him this question with the utmost seriousness devotion and respect, the kind owed to a senior Ashtanga Teacher or any maestro... I asked it with a glow in my eyes while making direct eye contact and I asked it with undeniable passion and sincerely...
The crowd broke into loud, relaxed and friendly laughter... indeed I made lots of eye contact with people in the crowd and shared in big friendly Finnish smiles...
Upon hearing the question, Lino had cracked an big warm southern-Italian smile too, held his hands out and gestured thankfully and gracefully, looked up, as if to the heavens... it appeared as if he was channeling the divine flavour of his pasta sauce and the beatitudes of all the Roman Catholic and Yogic saints for inspiration and guidance for how to dutifully answer the question, and bring his lecture full circle and indeed to a close... (I'm a sucker for the full-circle vibe in a well though out presentation if you hadn't already guessed).
Lino gave us wonderful instructions on how to prepare a dark olive-based sauce... My mouth was watering as Lino expounded on the virtues and flavour of the olives which come from close to his home town... I was too much enjoying the presentation of the recipe to have been taking notes to be able to record it...
Lisa says I must go to Roma next weekend to do the workshop and be with her teacher... I think she is correct.
If I am really really really lucky, I'll come away from Roma with a very special pasta-sauce recipe as well...
Workshop
Hope you're all in fine spirits and good health... drop me a line when you have the time...
with love,
roy
2nd assignment of 2009 #4
Everything is indeed relative...
In montreal, if I receive compliments when I dress up, it is not uncommon for me to hear that this or that part of my outfit has a European flavour or accent...
Here in Europe, dressed up as I was for the first day of class, the going comment was that my outfit carried a definite Mormon style.
Go figure...
2nd assignment of 2009 #5
Regarding dressing like a mormon...
This witty bit from my friend Gilles: "The Lord is my tailor and I shall not want."
2nd assignment of 2009 #6
So, as I've been saying... the key to a good pizza here in Italy, is to keep the ingredients simple...
2nd assignment of 2009 #7
Bags are packed, route is planned...
Drive to Saxa Rubra, park, train to Rome, and tube to coliseum.
By 16:00 this afternoon, I'll be finished with day one of the workshop with Lino.
His studio is a stones-throw from the coliseum... can't wait...
How you all doing? Any news?
bewell...
r
2nd assignment of 2009 #8
Even though I was one of the very first to arrive at the yoga school, I was the last to enter... I though it was considerate to let all of Lino's regular students, some who've come from quite far away, enter and greet him first...
Lino and I embraced and kissed southern Italian style, he smiled realizing 2 things; I have never practiced with him, and he knew my face from somewhere...
He said, "we have met before, where?"
"Helsinki" I said...
Lino smiled, not quite placing me...
"I've come to Roma to practice with you, and to write down your recipie for the best pasta sauce in the world."
"Ahh yes! 2004 lecture and video, I remember..." he said smiling...
Lino's good with faces, and places...
Pasta alla Lino Mielle Puttanesca
(basically traditional Puttanesca minus anchovy fillets)
pure extra-virgin olive oil
fresh chopped tomatoes (about 2 per person)
black and green olives (lots-more black tha green) cut in slices, or finer
dried hot chili peppers (peperoncino)
chopped fresh garlic (an ashtanga no-no)
capers (rinsed)
warm pure extra virgin olive oil (lots) in a pan
add garlic and chilipepers
when the garlic starts to change state remove it
add tomatoes
when oil and tomatoes come to light boil add capers and olives
and the garlic if so inclined
reduce heat
simmer a short while
serve over spaghetti, or spaghettini
add fresh chopped basil
A more thorough story from Diane Seed in her book, Top 100 Pasta Sauces (p. 20) ISBN 0-89815-232-1. She says:
"My introduction to this famous pasta dish occurred when I overheard two elderly priests discussing the pros and cons of Spaghetti alla Puttanesca ("Whore's spaghetti") as they deliberated over the menu in a Neapolitan restaurant. Made of ingredients found in most Italian larders, this is also known as Spaghetti alla Buona Donna - or 'Good Woman's Spaghetti' - which can be misleading if one is not familiar with the ironic insult figlio d'una buona donna - son of a good woman.[4]
To understand how this sauce came to get its name, one must consider the 1950s when brothels in Italy were state-owned. They were known as case chiuse or 'closed houses' because the shutters had to be kept permanently closed to avoid offending the sensibilities of neighbors or innocent passers-by. Conscientious Italian housewives usually shop at the local market every day to buy fresh food, but the 'civil servants' were only allowed one day per week for shopping, and their time was valuable. Their specialty became a sauce made quickly from odds and ends in the larder."
2nd assignment of 2009 #9
Ok...
So it's been 4 days since I've had what the Italians call "real" coffee... which of course means espresso.
I've been having caffé lattés instead, or at work just lattés (no cafe).
I've also consumed 4 liters of grapefruit juice in less than 24 hours. Anybody who knows me closely will know that this is my cure for any bug. I've been having a sore throat, and a cough... but following this treatment and some additional vitamin C, I now feel pretty fine and am well on the mend... It is impossible to find Argento Coloidiale here in Viterbo by the way...
Being under the weather of course, means that I did not make it to Paris this weekend, as I was hoping to do. I would have been able to see two old friends Colin and Brendan (brothers). My visit would have been a surprise to Brendan (no thanks to their father almost spilling the beans)... I was going to get myself into a predetermined café or bar, and Colin would have walked his brother there creating, what would have looked like, a fluke crossing of paths... Brendan lives in Vancouver.
Instead I spent the weekend in bed recovering...
So it's true I didn't write much about Roma...
The thing is, it was a whirlwind weekend, centered on the yoga workshop with Lino, so I didn't see much (in terms of what Roma has to offer). An art historian would be horrified and likely disgusted, that one would go to this great city and miss so much. Yeah sure, I did see Roma's Big-O, the Colosseo (I walked 3/4s of the way around it). The 1/4 of it I didn't get close to was the Arco di Constantino side, close to the Palatino. There aren't many people who've visited Roma and not gotten a good look at these things, spitting distance from the Colosseo. By the way I learned, Montreal is not the only international city with an ancient and crumbling stadium. I did see Piazza di Giovanni in Laterano... it was around the corner from my B&B.
I did walk quite a bit, and my feet were aching. I was wearing my favorite shoes, the ones I often travel in. There're great really comfortable... though I've never walked an entire day in them (not so great). And on top of that there was the yoga... not such a foot-friendly undertaking. And on top of that there was the pace of the yoga...
At home you could say I practice 3 times a week, never on back-to-back days. I practice alone (or with a few friends on Thursdays), and am quite gentle/slow with it. The workshop required 3 back-to-back days of practice... considering that a vigorous session really only hits you on day 3, you can imagine how I ached on day 3 of the workshop, and then the following 3 days. It is a feeling not unlike having been beat up with a 2x4 by some one who is therapeutically gifted in the administration of a beating. And the assistants (God bless them, especially Rrrrosanna), once they realized that my big thick body very readily receives adjustments (ashtanga yoga typically is a hands on practice wherein the teacher administers adjustments in the form of assistance to get into the poses) This link very well illustrates the method.
Anyhow... once the instructors figure out that my body gives itself over to them with ease, they really like giving me adjustments, as they see immediate results. Hence the physical sensation of having been in a gang fight 3 days post-practice...
My B&B was exactly 850 meters, as the crow flies, to Limo's studio, so likely 1.5km total walk. The guy who runs the B&B is also named Lino...
Ashtanga yoga is a vigorous practice, and it leaves one very hungry, and in need of sleep. So when in Roma, I think I did as most Romans do... ate, and rested...
I even turned down a very kind offer from one of the workshop participants. Debbie reminds me very much of my good friend Hannah (yes HH) Debbie is from New York and works in Roma, she drives a scooter, and has a spare helmet. She offered to bring it in to buzz me around Roma and take in some of the sights. Likely her spare helmet wasn't big enough for my meloné, and neither was her scooter. Sure, it would have comfortably fit the 2 of us, though there's the issue of the 250cc motor.... I'd be adding about 95 kilos to the load (me and my shoulder bag thank-you-very-much). Small-motored two wheeled vehicles don't perform so well with such a heavy load directly above, or behind the rear axle...
The workshop was great. I was the second person to arrive on the Friday. The first was a guy named Taro, he is from someplace close to Milan, we had a bit of a chat while we waited for the crowd to show up. Taro asked me which series I was working on. I said early part of the first... told him where I usually stop (in the sequence) and what my regular practice was like... he seemed kinda amused. He chuckled and with a big grin said... "dey-a-maybe-gonna-kick you out!" Taro is 54 years old and has one of the most advanced/beautiful practices I've ever seen (sorry Darby and Charles). We ended up practicing next to each other in the crowded room. I, possessing the most asana-resistant body in the room; he the least.
He's got a 2 hour-plus practice where he's doing 2nd (intermediate), and 3rd (advanced A) series. For reference.
Though these poses look challenging enough, the pictures do nothing to illustrate the movement which the practitioner goes through to get from one-to-the-next. And bear in mind that doing the Advanced A poses come after these ones are completed: http://ashtangayoga.info/asana-vinyasa/intermediate-series/index.html
It was a treat to watch him practice...
There was a party Saturday night for one of Lino's teachers, Sergio. He turned 50, and there was a yoga demonstration during the party. Lino called it the over 50 group. Lino is 56, Taro 54, Sergio 50, Tony 52, and Roberto 52. I took a video of the demo, which was set to music, We Will Rock You, Twist And Shout etc... I gave a copy to Sergio as a small Bday gift, he said he'd upload to youtube... details to follow???... there's photos on my flickr page in the yoga set of the teachers in the studio crowded around the door to the tiny office watching the video on the Sunday... Lino was in there crouched down in the middle...
It's funny to be at a party with ashtanga-yogis, they're a particular bunch. The guilt as they munch down the hors d'oeuvres... and the pleasure... most of those people would be shocked to learn the details of what goes on back home during our regular Thursday night yoga practice.
I have already posted pictures of my weekend in Roma.
There's pix of a grilled pork meal, which I had after Saturday's practice, and before a power nap and the party later in the evening. I'll bet no other workshop participant had such a meal that day!
I've decided to stay here in Viterbo to vacation and rest after my assignment. I really like traveling (being in distant lands), but really don't like traveling (getting to distant lands). I am simple, and I move slowly, sometimes too slowly for the world around me. I am currently in a very nice place, and I'm going to stay put. I'll do some day trips, some walking on the mountain and soaking in termé, and venture more into ancient Viterbo where the real beauty of this location is found. I've booked a nice B&B there which is affordable right inside the ancient city...
Speaking of B&Bs and traveling I'll be going back to Lino's place in Roma (not the yoga teacher) next weekend to see a bit more that fine city, it is Easter weekend. I've put a few calls in to the Pope to see if he'll meet me for tea, or espresso, but he hasn't returned my calls, I suspect he may already have a full weekend planned.
BeWellGodBless,
Roy
P.S. I'm scheduled back in Montreal last week of May...