This last installment is long overdue. It's taken me a while to sit myself down to write it. I'm still physically trying to recover from my Hampi trip. Sleep has been eratic and hopefully everything gets back to normal in the next few days. Normally I don't write about things which happened a few weeks ago but I promised friends before the trip I would write about Varanasi. In fact the Varanasi leg of the trip was the highlight and the reason for the whole trip in the first place. We alloted 5 days in Varanasi, one day in Agra and Delhi was just a jump off point.
First Sleeper Train
We took the sleeper train to Varanasi on a Tuesday night. I was really anxious and excited. I have never taken a sleeper train in my life. It was a 12 hour train ride and prior to that I had never been on a train longer than 2 hours. Growing up in the Philippines, we either took a plane, a bus or a boat. I also wasn't sure if I could sleep in a narrow bed surrounded with strangers. I wanted get my own cabin but decided to travel on the two tier sleeper with the crew. We had rented a car and did some sightseeing around Delhi that day. Since we had checked out of the hotel, we went straight to the train station.
The train must have left around 8PM. When we booked the tickets, our beds were not together. The girls were together while Sidney and I were together. Fortunately when we left Delhi, the train was not full. We arranged with the conductor so we could all be together. I was really tired after a full day of sightseeing. After setting up my bed, cleaning up with wet naps...no shower after a full day in Delhi...yuk!!! and taking two valerian capsules, I decided to sleep. I think the valerian did the trick. I got decent sleep and was pretty relaxed on the trip...I hope I don't become a valerian addict. I woke up around 5AM and we arrived around 8AM. I survived my first Indian sleeper train experience and lived to tell...can you tell I'm not a well travelled person?

Rebecca and Sidney having breakfast on the train.

This is how we look after 10 hours on the train...2 more hours to go. It wasn't as bad as I expected.
We had arranged for someone to pick us up and bring us to the Krishnamurti Study Center. He was commended to us by someone in Mysore who was in Varanasi a month earlier. We got to the center and freshened up before breakfast. It felt so good to take a shower after a full day in Delhi and travelling on a sleeper train. Some things we take for granted. After breakfast we decided to go back to our cottage and rest. I must have not slept as well as I thought because I instantly passed out. It took Sidney a while to wake me up for lunch.
Varanasi
I no longer remember what we did on a day to day basis. My memory has never been that good. This much I remember...Varanasi is chaotic and intense in every sense of the word. I expected this but was never really prepared for it. I don't think anything can prepare you for it. Delhi looks like paradise compared to Varanasi. Getting from the Krishnamurti Center to the old city took at least 30 minutes and the roads were bad and dusty. By the time we reached the old city, I was already exhausted and ready to head back to the center. Once we got to the ghats, the air was much fresher and less chaotic.
Varanasi is the oldest and holiest city in India. It definitely looks old but for some reason it didn't feel holy to me. I never really connected to the place the way the rest of the crew did. I would only spend a few hours on the ghats and was more than willing to retreat to the Krishnamurti Study Center. I felt like it was more of a tourist trap. Everybody was trying to sell us something. I think Sidney connected to the place more than anyone else in the group. He checked in a hotel in the old city, practiced yoga along the ghats and swam in the river. I thought about swimming in ther river but it was not that inviting. I only spent 3 of the 5 days in the old city while the rest of the crew was there everyday. I did enjoy watching the sunrise while being on the boat and watching the burning ghats (burning of the dead bodies). I enjoyed hanging out in the abandoned majaraha's palace along the ghat. I'm glad I went there but I don't think I would be returning there anytime soon. If I do go back, I would only stay for 2 days...maybe 3 days max. Unless you enjoy hanging out in the ghats, there's not much else to do. I'm more of a nature kind of person and the less populated the place the better it is for me.
Finding Krishnamurti
A lot of people in Mysore recommended that we stay at the Krishnamurti Study Center in Rajghat Fort. It's away from the old city and is a good place to retreat after a full day in the city. We were supposed to stay there for only two days and then find a hotel in the old city. After my first morning driving through Varanasi and arriving at the retreat center, I knew I was going to stay there for the 5 days. It is an oasis in the middle of chaos. The place is so peaceful and air is fresh. There are huge trees all over the property. I was told the whole place was about 300 acres which includes a college.
On our first day in Varanasi we headed to the old city to do an afternoon boat ride. On our way to the city my stomach did not feel well. I had "Delhi belly" and asked the guide to take me back to the center. They left me in the center and headed back to the old city. I just hung out in the cottage and rested. I was a little bummed that I was left behind but I didn't make a big deal of it...there must have been a reason why.
Later that afternoon, one of the staff invited me to a group discussion they were having at 7PM. I did not know anything about Krishnamurti or his teaching and at that time didn't care. We were just using the place as a hotel and had no interest in his teachings. Since I was bored that afternoon, I decided to join the discussion group. I just kept quiet and listened. I don't recall what was said that night but a few statements struck me so I decided to borrow one of the books from the library. I asked one of the staff to recommend a book since I knew nothing of Krishnamurti. He lent me "The Beauty of the Mountain". It was a small book with big letters...my kind of book, written by one of Krishnamurti's old students.
I read that book that night and loved it. After reading that book I went back to borrow more. I really could relate to Krishnamurti's teachings. In a way, his teachings reflects how I approach my asana practice. I spent much of my time reading his books and watching his videos. I ended up buying 7 of his books. Finding Krishnamurti was the reason why I had Delhi belly that afternoon. I was meant to be there that day. I think he died in the mid-80's but his spirit lives on in the center. You can almost feel his presence in the trees, the people running the center and in the air. Some of his teachings confirms much of what I've already believe in. I may not be that crazy after all. It's nice to know I'm not alone in some of my farfetched beliefs.
For most people, watching the burning ghats or swimming in the river is the highlight of their Varanasi trip. I never connected to the ghats or the old city. I found Krishnamurti in Varanasi...that was the highlight to my trip.
When we left, I thanked Sangeetha for her hospitality and the great food. She told me that they do not encourage people to use the center as a hotel. The center should only be used by people who are interested in Krishnamurti's teachings. They only allowed us to stay because they could see that Rebecca and I were truly interest. I'm glad she let us stay.
We headed back to Delhi two days after the bombings. By then we were all beat up and ready to be back in Mysore. All of us got sick to a different degree. The water in the north made Rebecca's rashes worst and she had to check in the hopital for 4 days in Mysore. Sidney had severe Delhi belly and a fever. Morag and I were fighting a cold. Travelling up north is intense and takes a toll in your body. I'm happy I did it though and wouldn't change anything about it. In fact I'm planning to head back next year and visit Rishikesh, Rajastan and Dharamsala. At least now I know what to expect next year and I realized I'm much tougher than I thought I was. Trip is only the first of many trips I plan to make around India. If I can survive Varanasi, I sure I can survive any other place in India or even around the whole...who knows.

the ghats late in the afternoon

bathing in the river...I thought about it but that's it...no thank you.

more bathing in the river

there were a lot of sadus in the old city. it's hard to distinguish the really ones from the fakes ones.

the Varanasi crew hanging out in the maharaja's palace. this was on of my favorite places in Varanasi. it had a great view of the river and nobody was harassing us or trying to sell anything.

we woke up at 4AM to catch the early morning boat and watch the sunrise. our guide came late and we almost missed the sunrise.

riding the boat with Morag. I'm still half asleep.