Saturday, July 30, 2005
rules
So here are some important rules I have learned since I have been here in India:
0. If an Indian asks you (and you are a woman) "why you are not married?" You just simply answer, "My parents did not have enough goats." with a sad look on your face, then walk away slowly. Be aware that you will be asked every question imagineable by complete and total strangers, especially if it is highly personal in nature. In India, this is a sign of respect, to mind someone else's business in a very public way, and get a good laugh out it if possible. They are being very sweet.
1. If you are a man, you should urinate exactly in the spot you are whenever you need to urinate, especially if you are in public and. There is no need to hide your pissing penis, in fact you should be proud of it and of your right to urinate freely, anywhere and on anything. It is a really classy thing to do. There is no need to wait and go in a service station, heck, they don't have urinating facilities anyway. I mean what ARE urinating facilities, really, but the divider in the center of the busy street, the tree on the side of the road, the spot on the ground next to the garbage bin (if there actually IS a garbage bin) or, why even take more than one step away from your scooter when you need to urinate? At least wait for a "red light" then stand up next to your scooter, lift your lunghi, and let 'er rip. If you have to pee in your own house, why go to the toilet room? Just pee out the window. If you are not tall enough to get it out the window, just pee on the wall under the window. Then, go out and get the scavenger girl off the street to come in and wipe it up. This rule applies to ALL men. All castes can realy on this rule. Men should urinate anywhere they have to. It is important for survival and the well-being of society.
2. Grab your penis once every ten minutes, especially in public. Others must be made aware of the fact that you have a penis, and you KNOW it. You really have to do this for several reasons - one, just to make sure it is still there, and another, to really feel good about yourself. Just having a penis in India meansa that you are the SHIT.
3. Never, ever, for the love of god and money, apply the brakes to your speeding vehichle, especially if you are driving through a busy intersection. People have been known to enter a fugue state they never come out of, and come back to life a much, much lower caste for performing this simple act of sensible courtesy. Instead, apply the HORN long and hard, speed up, and drive through with your eyes closed. Also, if you are driving up the middle of a street 30 miles over the speed limit and there are pedestrians in your way, NEVER, NEVER drive around them or move over even an inch. Speed up, apply the horn long and hard and drive over them. After all, we are all hysterically going from standing around at a shop where we don't work all day, just to confuse the westerners, to the chai stall, where we will also stand around all night doing tha all-important under-employed Indian occupation of absolutely fucking nothing.
3. Never, ever tell the rickshaw driver to put the meter on. This means, "plesae don't put the meter on I would rather you rip me off and tell me that the meter does not work." or "please don't put the meter on, I would rather wait till we reach the destination of a 20 rupee rickshaw ride and have you try and charge me 60 rupees and start yelling really loud when I get out of the stinky, ripped up, old natty, nasty-ass seat and drop a twenty rupee note over your shoulder.
4. Always say no five times. Saying no once means "definitely yes!" saying no the second time means "yes, of course" the third and fourth times means "yes, but ask me two more times because I might change my mind" and saying no the fifth time means "maybe no, but don't believe me because I am a stupid westerner."
5. When you tell the rickshaw driver to take you to Appolo hospital in English, it really means (in Kannada), "take me to your brothers craft emporium, the Indus Valley Ayurvedic Center, and other shops I don't even know I want to go to!"
6. When you tell the Rickshaw driver to take you to the Zoo, and he asks "waiting?" and you say, "no waiting, going to stay at zoo for long time" it really means, wait for me at the exit and harrass me when I exit for not paying you to "wait"
7. When someone says "we are not like the other Indians in Mysore who only want money money money from the yoga students, who charge you four time more than what they will charge Indians for the same service, these people are money-grubbing thieves, you should stay away from them." It means "we are Indian people who only want money, money money from the yoga students and will charge you four times as much as what we will charge Indian people, we are money-grubbing thieves and you should stay away from us."
8. If you are a western woman and you dare to go into a restaurant alone in the middle of the day, it means please stare at me the entire time I try to eat my food, because the reason I am here is not to get something to eat, but to have sex with the restaurant workers and perhaps some of the male customers as well, especially the ones who remember to grab their penis' regularly. In America, holding on to one's penis in plain sight in front of a woman while she is trying to eat her lunch is a sign of respect.
9. Always wear makeup and a good outfit when you go to the Mysore zoo. The Indian families will find you a much more valuable and interesting attraction then the absolutely, heart breakingly adorable three-month-old white tiger cubs and their mom, and ask that you pose for pictures with all of their attending family members. So it is important that you feel that you look good since your photos will be subsequently passed around several Indian neighborhoods, brought out on special occassions like birthday parties and engagements, and brought to schools for yearsa to come for "show-and tell" as in, "look! this is the tall WHITE lady we saw at the Mysore zoo!"
10. If you are mot married, never, ever try to get a pap smear at the Appolo Hospital during the light of day. Only married ladies "need" pap smears, and all unmarried ladies are virgins in India and do not "need" pap smears because this standard medical proceedure will render a woman "unmarriable" and thus destined for a life of shame and misery, or so I have been told by hospital staff. You are to go for this scandalous proceedure by the dark of night, preferably wearing a borrowed wedding band to avoid any perceived misunderstandings.
11. Shopkeeper ALWAYS know if you need to buy a saree, and you NEVER know yourself. You should trust them to tell you this because you are a stupid westerner and have no idea about your personal saree needs.
12. Always try to have a sense of humor when in India, otherwise you could end up like I did, grumbling "fuck off" to poor little postcard and bangle sellers bombarding you outside the gates of the Mysore Palace, or walking down the street with a rock at the ready like my roommate did, fearing another encounter with our neighborhood "masturbator" who does us the pleasure of showing us his monkey-slapping technique just when you didn't know you were looking for it.
13. Never forget your husband's or father's name and how to write it. This question will be on every form you fill out in India, on the first line, next to "what is your name." This applies to forms for opening cell phone accounts, internet use accounts at the internet place as well as for your medical records when you go to the hospital for any kind of procedure. When filling out the form at Apollo Hospital to get my master health check up (which I might add was highly professional, state of the art and trouble free, and mind bogglingly cheap) I left this space blank. The registrar clerk came back a bit flummoxed and asked me why it was blank. Goodness.
Now I am going shopping and I am going to buy copious amounts of clothing, jewelry, books and sarees that I don't need, and then I am going to drink myself silly with coffee at my favorite "cool kid" coffee hangout, Coffee Day, where you can always count on a soundtrack including Kurt Cobain, 2-Live-Crew, and many, many Bollywood soundtrack hits sung along to by the 18-something year olds in diesel jeans, Tommy HIlfiger t-shirts and $200 nikes. I kind of like it.
Later I will tell you about the "Brahmin Reiki-Rip-0ff" scheme I experienced and escaped before I forked over $60 for a 20-rupee foam ball and a bunch of Japanese drawings. It is too long and too funny of a story to write right now.
3:56 am edt
Tuesday, July 19, 2005
STAMP EPIC
So I went to the post office and bought stamps for three postcard destined for the States, but when I got home I found that there was no GLUE on the back of the stamps. I had to go back to the post office again to glue the stamps on since I don't have any glue at my temporary abode. Two of the stamps ripped in the process and the glue was really runny so I had bits of stamp stuck to the sides of my figers and parts of stamp stuck to the postcard which was also sticking to the side of my hand.
I want this to serve as a metaphor for my experience in India. The stamps finally got assembled and stuck to the correct postcard but not after advice from two local ladies who put down their things to rescue me from 24 rupees (60 cents) worth of postage stuck to my hands. I am really surprised that there is not a person who sits in the post office and glues stamps on for two rupees. Because - in the main post office there are a bunch of guys who wrap packages in the regulation manner for shipping for like 20 rupees or something. This process involves plastic wrapping, then SEWING muslin fabric on the package instead of the paper and tape method favored by the modern world. It is sort of like a scene from the bible. There are even camels walking about in the streets lately.
You could sew the packages yourself, but under pressure I suck with a needle and thread. And you have to go somewhere and buy the fabric before you sew it on and that involves a bone-rattling rickshaw ride, haggling with shop owners, being harassed by beggars wielding monkeys and cobras and harmoniums and I am too tired for that. If you use the guys in the post office with no teeth, they include the cost of the fabric in the 20 rupees they charge.
4:15 am edt
Friday, July 15, 2005
change of attitude
Well, I was going to write about how I discovered while in Bangalore last week that the only time you are required to use a knife and fork while eating food in India is when you are eating pizza at Pizza Hut at the Forum Mall, or at any Pizza Hut in India for that matter. Normally Indians eat full on with their right hand, food dripping down their hands and arms, no napkins or mopping up tools in the vicinity, even at fancy functions and the like, caste no matter. Last week, when I was in Banglaore to fix my computer and change my Air India flight, I was so, so psyched for pizza at Pizza Hut. I went to the incredibly crowded with twenty-thirty-something hip Indians Pizza Hut at the Forum, the modern, western-style mall just outside of the city. When the waiter brought my pizza, I picked it up and took a bite. Then another, then another. Then I realized that I was being stared at more than usual and when I looked around noticed that eveyone but me was eating their pizzas with a KNIFE and FORK. I thought the knife and fork the waiter brought me was optional and provided as some kind of cultural courtesy for westerners who like to eat Indian food with utensils rather than our grubby hands. I didn'[t realize that it was REQUIRED equipment at Pizza Hut. "What are you looking at? I'm American, and if there was ever a time to eat with one's hands, NOW WOULD BE IT!" "What? What? So now you are going to torture me with utensil etiquette? Give me a break." The waiter swung by my table with a stack of napkins and I swear he winked at me when he dropped tham on my table.
But I won't write more about that, or the intensive full-on, full body medical check up I am having today at Apollo Hospital for $25 dollars, I will write about the fact that a significant pay check for contracted work I did (am still doing) for a theatre company in my city that was due to me in May, but promised to me by early July, is now not coming until mid-August??? (So they say) I just want it on the record that I was counting on this money to live on while I am in India, and now they are not going to pay me, and I am REALLY PISSED. Now I am going to have to start driving a rickshaw or telling fortunes or some such shit so I can pay my rent and take care of my business for the next four weeks. What the hell? THIS is why parents tell their children to stay out of the theatre and go to law school. Or something.
For the record, if, and I know there are some, some of the readers happen to know what theatre company I am talking about, and who is responsible, and you are reading this thinking "Wow, I know who she is talking about. I can't believe they aren't going to pay her when they promised early July and she is in India, that really sucks..." or you are thinking "Wow, she shouldn't be writing politically incorrect stuff like this on a publicly accessible blog. She might loose her job with the theatre company, or she will make some enemies, or insult someone at the theatre company by gossiping about their dirty laundry", or "This is personal business and she shouldn't be telling everyone about her personal financial troubles..." To you, I say, "I DON"T @*&%&*($##% CARE!!!!!!" And you know who you are... I am getting STIFFED for my paycheck and I am none too pleased about it. And you can pass that message around.
Love,
Swami KaKananda I'm so broke now-ji
5:50 am edt
Friday, July 8, 2005
india proetry
three days to make copies. landlady made lunch stuffed us like muskets. little tree is incarnation of LAKSHMI, goddess of wealth. landlord charging yoga students 10 times the Indian rate. no wonder she is so busy praying to the money tree. no more today. dance party tonight. soon more party pics. oh boy. ankle and leg are multi-colored now, updates on photo column soon.
love and peace and lakshmi
7:26 am edt
Monday, July 4, 2005
trash and burn
Finally, as predicted, a rickshaw came flying out of a side street into a main road, no stopping, no loooking, right into the path of my old, clunky, heavy and unwieldy scooter, but I slammed on the brakes before the collision and my scooter skidded to the left and went down on top of me as I slid along the pavement on top of a large rock and my right ankle. I thought the photos would be interesting as I have sued the rickshaw driver for all he's worth and these are the photos that helped me win the case. It's much better now, but for a couple of days my right leg was really sore and my ankle swelled up like a squash.
Then as if the first roadside adventure wasn't quite enough, on the two hour ride in an ambassador cab to and from the Tibetan settlements on Saturday, we were almost killed at least twice and banged up pretty seriously because the roads are so bad that every minute or so the car has to (but doesn't) slow down almost to stopping because of the ruts and holes and serious mud. Also, the car has to avoid the dogs sleeping, the cows, the people, other cars? in the streets and the enormous tourist bus that came kareening (sp?) around another bus through a ditch on one side of the street, and tipped so far to the side that two wheels actually CAME OFF OF THE GROUND, then, at a good 50 mph or so swerved back to the left side of the road right in front of us missing the front of our car by only a few feet. It was AWESOME! I thought for sure there were cameras rolling somwhere but I never found them. Our driver NEVER flinched and kept rolling along as though it were a minor diversion he barely noticed. I love it.
The Tibetan settlements were incredible. I got a long dress, a pashmina shawl, a cool pair of bellbottoms, a couple of gifts... just kidding. See photos. Beautiful temples and groovy vibe at the monastery. The only real drawback was arriving to see the little dog twitching to death on the sidewalk and the long, sliming, nasty greenish snake slinking away that had just bit it. I suppose it was fun for the Indian guys who found a long stick and started poking at the awful green thing and playing "snake daredevil macho guy." It was another instance where the cameras were rolling somewhere.??
For those who are holding fast to the idea that my house is, as someone put it, "really cute," I have posted some overexposed photos of the really cute garbage dump right next door that also smells really cute. It's also really cute to watch the six year old scavehger girl (who was recruited to reach her arm down my filthy toilet to unblock it) rifling through the piles of used diapers, used toilet paper, shit, plastic bags, plastic bottles, rotting food and even dead animals looking for something to eat in the mornings. Then it's really cute to watch her play hopscotch in the street after breakfast.
Actually my house is really nice and I'm very happy. Our landlords are so kind. Mr. Ganapati is a tennis fan so I have been able to look in on the wimbeldon this past couple of weeks. Tomorrow Mrs. Ganapati in going to take us three women to her "good sari shop. not charging for too much to you. stitching very fine, also not too charging. i go? in auto (rickshaw) we go near zoo is where shop. yes, you can. you tell, fine. OK? OK?" "That would be really nice. Thank you so much." "You not be charging too much. I take."
She is so sweet. I come home in the afternoons sometimes to find her doing an incense, bell ringing, spice powder offering puja around this little tree in a standing planter out in front of the house. The tree looks like it could use a few prayers and with Mrs. Ganapati around it will get all the help it needs.
We are also all invited for dinner with them on Friday. It is very auspicious day for them because it is the beginning of the month that is devoted to the goddess Chamundi. Chamundi hill is here in Mysore and there will be large puja there every Friday this month. I don't know who she is, this Chamundi gal, but I'm psyched to go to the party.
3:19 am edt